James Halliday asked me to confirm if the Chardonnay wine grape was grown and made into wine in Victoria in the nineteenth century. This is my reply.
Chardonnay was grown in Southern Victoria in the nineteenth century, although the
differences in nomenclature and the loss of the vine stock now make
make it difficult for people to say so with absolute certainty. I
wrote about the Castle Hill Vineyard (Yan Yean) having what appeared
to be Chardonnay in the form of Pineau Blanc in Better Than Pommard: a history of wine in Victoria (1994) pp.8-9.
The wonders of Trove (the National Library’s Digital newspaper finding aid) now make this an easy matter to resolve and to pursue. We can now say with confidence, I believe, that Chardonnay was grown and made into good wine (possibly great wine) in those districts you mention (Geelong and Yarra Valley) and elsewhere in Victoria in the C19th. We just have to look up the newspapers and put two and two together. Of course you do need to understand the prevalence of synonyms that existed for varieties then. But Pineau Blanc is easily identified as Chardonnay in a number of sources. For example The Argus 1 December 1858 p1 suppl. “The Vine II” contains a big discussion of grape varieties:
No.14 Pineau Blanc “One of the most celebrated wine grapes of the
North of France, and extensively cultivated in the best vineyards of
Burgundy and Champagne.” No mistake about this.
Argus 15 March 1860 p1 suppl. On the choice of vines.
“The pineau blanc is one of the most celebrated wine grapes of the
North of France, and is extensively cultivated in the best vineyards
of Burgundy and Champagne, bunches very small, berries small, very
sweet and sugary produces little, but of excellent quality. This sort
is suited to the colder districts of the Colony.” I think this is what we are after.
Pineau Blanc and Hermitage grapes were grown at Louis Dumont’s
vineyard, Punt Road South Yarra.
(Argus 8 Jan 1863 p.5)
Pineau Blanc was grown at the Milpah Vineyard (it adjoined the Prince
Albert Vineyard) of Abram Tribolet on the Colac Road (Waurn Ponds) Argus 9 Feb
1864 p.6.
As early as 1850 at the Victoria Horticultural Society Exhibition
Messrs. Breguet and Amiet entered a wine made from “Pineau green and
noir” Argus 31 Oct 1850, p.2.
At a Vinegrowers Competitive Dinner, which arose from a friendly dispute between
Mr Dardell and Mr Breguet as to which of them possessed the
best white wine. “Mr Pettavel of Victoria Vineyard sent in a white
wine from the pineau blanc.” Argus 28 Jan 1862 p.6.
Prince Albert Vineyard Principal White varieties: “pineau blanc,
verdeilho, gouais, chasselas, sweetwater, wantage and a few of the
roussillons but the latter ripen late and are not used for
winemaking.” Argus 29 Jan 1864, p.5.
“A Victorian Vineyard” (The Yering Vineyard) Argus 15 May 1863 p. 5
records eighteen acres planted with “pinot noir, or black cluster”
One acre is planted to “Pinot Blanc”.
In about 1875 Hubert de Castella wanted to recast his enterprise to
make Champagne. He would not have done this without access to
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I don’t have the exact references to this
to hand here at the office but believe it to be so. I could provide
chapter and verse on this in due course.
and then there is a final conclusive point for you from the Yeringberg vineyard in the Yarra Valley from the Argus 3 January 1872. This article also clearly identifies the White Hermitage of the Yarra Valley as Marsanne, a point about which I have been
challenged on elsewhere by Ted Henzell.
“Under the shade of a friendly tree wine was served and high encomiums
passed on the verdeilho, pineau blanc, white hermitage, and chasselas
samples submitted. The health of Mr de Pury having been drunk with
three times three, various gentlemen indulged the company with songs,
etc.”
In Victoria in the C19th Pineau Blanc was Chardonnay. I think that we can say that it was widely grown and made into wine in Southern Victoria especially in the nineteenth century and notably so in the Geelong and Upper Yarra Valley districts.
with best wishes and continuing admiration,
David Dunstan
